Hoppers — breakfast of champions

Bowl-shaped pancakes of fermented rice and coconut milk. Order an egg hopper with lunu miris (chilli-onion sambol) and a cup of plain tea.

Kottu — the sound of the night

Listen for the rhythmic clang of metal on metal — that's kottu being chopped on a hot griddle. Chicken cheese kottu is the gateway drug.

Rice & curry — never the same twice

A proper plate has 5-7 small curries: dhal, jackfruit, beetroot, pumpkin, fish, papadam, sambol. Mix everything with your fingers.